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Auxiliary Batteries
and wiring |
| Visit Geno's Garage for Truck accessories. |
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Note: the electrical system and this page are under construction
The Batteries:
Campers, lights, and air compressors can deplete a starting battery leaving one unexpectedly setting in the woods. After some calculation, I concluded that a pair of 65 AH Optima Yellow Top deep cycle batteries would power my electrical needs. 130 AH of capacity would power the camper for at least a week, and could run for longer periods when boosted with the engine alternator or a small solar collector.
By saving the truck batteries for the engine only, starting should never be a problem. And if somehow the truck batteries died, I could always jump them with the two 750 CCA Optima's.
A pair ordered from a local accessory shop, arrived the next day.
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These batteries are designed for cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads. |
Battery Mounting:
Unfortunately, the diesel Ram already has two starting batteries and little room for additional batteries under the hood, so another alternative was needed. There is room for one battery on each side beside the frame under the floor, but the batteries need to be protected from stones thrown by the front wheels.
Summit Racing Equipment manufactures a closed aluminum battery box that can be cut in half and turned on its side to fit one battery in each (now) open-top half.
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Summit
Racing Equipment |
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DESCRIPTION: This aluminum box has a non-sealed design that can be configured for installation anywhere. Depending on how you bolt the panels together, your cables run through pre-punched holes in the back or the side, high or low. The box comes complete with its own assembly/installation kit including a heavy duty battery hold-down, two battery hold-down brackets, high grade bolts and nuts. Holds up to a group 27 battery. |
| The outside dimensions of the battery box are: Depth: 10 1/2 in. Width: 9 7/8 in. Length: 14 5/8 in. | |
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SUM-E890100 Natural finish aluminum battery
box
SUM-E890101 Black finish aluminum battery box - cost was about $90 in 1999 |
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| The Summit battery box is huge and can be split in half, with each half turned on end to form a pair of open top optima boxes. The batteries still have their plastic wrappers in this photo. | ![]() |
| Each box half receives a pair of angle iron brackets. Four 3/8" bolts attach the battery box brackets directly to the frame beneath the cab, one box on each side of the truck. | ![]() |
Battery Charging Circuit
An isolator is needed to prevent accessory loads from draining the starting batteries when the engine is not running. Isolators can be diode arrays or a an electrical solenoid switch. I prefer the solenoid because there is no voltage drop across a solenoid, it is reliable, and it easy to find a replacement when it fails. Number 8 wire feeds both 12V and ground from the main batteries to the solenoid, then to the aux batteries. The solenoid and a 40A circuit breaker are bolted to the air filter housing.
The winch will on the main starting batteries because voltage drop on the long run from the aux batteries would be too great.
Power Distribution
Each battery box has a surplus terminal block with three 3/8X24 stainless steel studs for large wire junctions. Fortunately I had a handful of 3/8x24 stainless nuts salvaged that had been salvaged from junk (3/8x24 hardware was commonly used for mobile antennas many years ago). Autozone Auto Parts had battery cables in various lengths.
I wanted a Ram underhood PDC from a junkyard, but was unable to locate one and settled for a PDC from a Dakota which is smaller and has fewer circuits. The Dakota PDC contains enough relays and fuses for the aux lights, camper, pre-luber, etc. The fuses and relays are the same as those in the Ram PDC and can be borrowed in an emergency.
This page was edited on: May 3, 2004